Finding the Ferry

I left Saint Malo with a bit of a heavy heart, as happens when leaving family. It may have been 30 years since I last saw them, but it was like I had been there all along and there was a sense of belonging that one usually gets with family...or life long friends.

I was on the way to meet one of my oldest friends, Jolene, to catch the ferry to Rosslare, Ireland. We met when we were 12 and I don't think there's anyone that knows me better.

When I got off the train it was 3:20pm. The ferry didn't board until 6:15pm. Loads of time! Jolene and I consulted a nearby map and saw that the port was very nearby - and we could we could see the Celtic Link Ferry just there. Easy. 

We decided to see if we could find a grocery store to pick up some food for the 17 hour journey. Alas it was Sunday and this was France. Nothing but florists were open. Florists...really??

We revised the plan and decided to do a recon mission of the ferry terminal. We were going to check it out and then find a bite to eat. Naturally we walked toward the ferry which was next to a stately building that looked like a classic big train station. This must be the terminal, non? It was a museum with a massive submarine out front. And a huge fence topped with barbed wire between us and the ferry. We asked directions and off we went following the white barbed fence looking for a long low grey building.

Jolene and I haven't seen each other in 7 years so as we walked caught up, laughed and it was like it had only been a week since I had seen her. An hour later we looked at each other and said, "Does this bleeding fence ever end???" Our Ferry was getting smaller and smaller behind us and the white fence continued on and on. The sun was shining, the day was hot and our packs were not getting any lighter.

A kilometer and a half later there was a break in the fence and a pedestrian walkway to a long low grey building. We made it!!!

Boats and cousins

Yesterday we had another glorious afternoon. I had to go to the train station to book my ticket to Cherbourg to catch the ferry to Ireland.

Now, I'm here in Saint Malo, not only enjoying this wonderful place, but also visiting my auntie - who is 91 and my cousins. They are all sailors and love going out on the sea as often as possible. Yesterday was opportunity knocking! The eldest of the 4 boys and his lovely wife took me out for a quick spin in their motor boat. Although the sea was relatively calm we did catch some air! I can understand their obsession of being on the sea.

That night we had a great meal together telling stories, drinking wine and eating a fine meal. Ahhh this is the life!

Dinard

I'm slowly getting used to the pace of life here in France. Lunch is a very important part of the day and must not be ignored. Often actvities are broken up between morning and afternoon with a good 2-3 hours in the middle dedicated to preparing, eating, and perhaps a little rest after lunch. But it's summer so the days are long - no worries!

The first few days were a little drizzly and overcast. The sun usually making an appearance at about 2pm (see even the sun respects lunch). The times when the sun is out are absolutely magnificent; clear blue skies, the water twinkling; long stretches of beach....ahhh! Oh in answer to your question - no I haven't gone swimming. Are you mad??? The water temperature did go up yesterday to a whopping 15 degrees. I think I shall continue to just enjoy it's beauty from afar.

After lunch on Wednesday I went into Saint Malo intra muros (within the walls - although it started as a fortified town it has out grown it's walls as you can well imagine), my cousin had suggested that I take the ferry bus across the bay to Dinard - another small town. It only takes 10 minutes to cross and you get a fabulous view of the great walls of Saint Malo.

Dinard was first settled by wealthy shipping merchants. They built stately homes (read mansions) overlooking the harbour. This coastline is refered to as the emerald coast because it is sheltered from the weather and so has quite a mild climate.

It is a very popular spot for the British and indeed many of the wonderful houses there are owned by English nationals.

I was lucky enough to have a glorious sunny afternoon and I enjoyed the stroll into the small town and along the beach and coastline.

Mont Saint Michel

The Mont Saint Michel is  tidal island on the border of Brittany and Normandy.

The tides are massive in this area and can go out up to 14 km from shore. You'd think that you would be able to see it coming back from a mile away, but every year it claims a few lives. Victor Hugo was quoted as saying that the tides here come in like a galloping horse. The tides aren't the only danger here either...there are quick sands to watch out for too. The sand becomes so engorged with water that, although it still looks solid, it can not bear any weight. So it just sucks you in and the more you struggle the faster you go down. What a terrifying death!



The Cloister



On the island is a abby that has taken hundreds of years to complete. Legend has it that the Archangel Michael appeared to Bishop Aubert in 709 and ordered him to build a church on the island. Aubert finally got around to it and so it all started with 2 small buildings.

Over the years it slowly grew until in the 11th century Italian architect Volpiano was commisioned to build something big. He designed a massive Romanesque church and abbey complete with underground crypts and chapels to underpin the massive structure.

In 1204 part of it was burned during a battle and then rebuilt in classic gothis style. A refectory and cloister were also added at this time.



Throught the years, a town also began growing on this small island. The place has the narrow cobbled streets and the tall crowded buildings of a medieval town. Although today there are only gift shops, restaurants and hotels, after wandering the narrow alleys, climbing the steep stairs and discovering the hidden gardens, it becomes easy to fall under the spell of this place beyond the tourist trappings. I can understand why millions come here every year.

During the French Revolution this place of peace and harmony was used as a prison for enemies of the king. One such prisoner was later freed and became mayor of Paris.





The green patch on the left is part of the salt plain



Over the years and tides, silt has deposited along the shore, creating salt plains that are now used for grazing sheep at low tide. Because of this the shoreline has slowly been creeping closer to the Mont Saint Michel: 20 hectares a year they reckon. Man has also played a large part in this by building a causeway in 1918 to facilitate visitors and pilgrims to the site. In later years big parking lots were added. If left unchecked these changes will mean that the Mont Saint Michel will become part of the mainland by 2025.  So, in 2006 they decided to rectify the situation. There are currently massive works going on; the building of a bridge and a dam, as well as the removal of the causeway and parking lots. The dams will slow the waters coming in and in theory this will help slow the silt deposits right down.



Archangel Michael slaying the dragon -
this statue in bronze tops the catheral



Now, this being France, it wouldn't be right if there wasn't a strike right? Well the workers that administer the Mont Saint Michel Abbey were on strike. They were protesting that it costs too much to park, takes too long to get here with the free shuttle service from the expensive parking lots and that the tourists have too far to walk from the place that the shuttle bus drops you off (this will get closer as the bridge they're building is completed).

All of the construction that is going on to preserve this UNESCO world heritage site is scheduled to be completed by 2016...it's sad that people can't wait a few years to see the results.

We are experiencing technical difficulties....

MADE IT!

That last flight from Hong Kong to Paris was brutal. It was an older plane and the seats were hard as rock and very narrow. To boot, I got stuck with a seat right at the back where the galley was and the light was never truned off. I tried any number if contortionist positions but I had great difficulty getting any sleep. I did however have great food! I had asked for strict vegetarian Indian food (Jair) - it was bloody brilliant!
It was a long and gruelling journey, but I finally made it to St.Malo; birth place of my mom.

This is a very old fortified city, founded in the sixth centry, although it's first rampart wasn't built until the 12th century. During the 18th centry it became a hub of piracy and privateers - basically a pirate who has permission from the king to destroy enemy ships... a lucative endeavour back in the day! They also exacted tributes from mechant ships who wanted to do business in this busy port.




It was also the home of Jacques Cartier, who my Canadian compatriots will know as, the dude who in 1534 "discovered" Canada...I'm sure the First Nations have a wildly different view.

I'll jump ahead to August 1944 when the city was pretty much gutted (80% gone) leaving only the ramparts intact.

I shall let you know more as I learn more. 







 

I am currently experiencing technical difficulties with my phone, so my best laid plans are laid to waste! I will try to get it all fixed, but in the mean time I'm back in the internet cafes...and I gotta say that there aren't many of those around here.

Tomorrow I plan to visit the Mont St. Michel a very well known tidal island with strategic fortifications.

Stage 1

Arrival at Sydney airport: complete

Many thanks to Shelley who was kind enough to wake up early on a Sunday and drive me to the bus station.

Half an hour before my flight boards. I have bought the ear plugs. I am ready for stage two...

Two more sleeps....

I'm off again on Sunday and this time I'm off to France and Ireland.

The journey begins, as it usually does, with Murray's bus to Sydney: 3 hours
Then off I go into the wild blue yonder to Hong Kong: 9.5 hours
After 3 hours of "rest" I get back on and head to gay Paris: 13 hours
I'm lucky I land at CDG 'coz from there I can catch my train to St.Malo: 4 hours

That's almost 30 hours in transit...I hope my cousin, whom I haven't seen in close to 30 years doesn't run from the station when he sees the state of me.

I'm bringing only the same carry on bag as the last time, but this time I'm bringing my phone. I'm going to see if I can use it to write this blog...should be an interesting experiment. I'm not wholly mad however and I will be bringing a small portable keyboard along.

Watch this space!