That night we heard drumming until very late in the night, but the natives didn't quite make it the 4 miles from the town to the hamlet.
I had no clue about this tradition/holiday and I'm glad that chance made me pick the most out of the way place possible on this particular day. We later learned that there had been bust ups and minor riots in Belfast and other cities.
Over breakfast the proprietor was telling us that it was difficult living between 2 religions - no shit! But nothing bad happened in our little corner - a part from the whole ATM incident, (no worries, have back up). There was a reason I had picked this little out of the way place though...it was right in the middle of 2 very great sites.
The first one we went to visit was Carrick-a-Rede, which means rock in the road. This area used to have a big salmon fishing industry. There was one particular spot that the salmon favoured - it's a small island just off the coast, and when I say just , I mean just. It's like a section of the cliff dropped off in between the main land and this piece of rock leaving it stranded. For over 350 years fishermen in these parts would string up a rope bridge to cross over the chasm to reach the best spot for catching migrating fish. The industry died when the fish stocks were irreparably depleted. Now, thousands come from all over the world to cross the flimsy bridge 30m over the sea to enjoy the fabulous views and wildlife.
It's a very cool place to visit and we were lucky enough to see a single seal basking in the sun dappled sea. The island was loud with the cries of all the sea birds and we were particularly taken with the flying penguins...ok they're actually called razorbills, but seriously, they look like penguins.
Opposite Carrick-a-Rede, there are the Larrybane cliffs. This is the limestone headland on the west of Larrybane bay. They used to mine the limestone and dolerite here until the early 80's. Much of Glasgow's cobbles come from the stone in these cliffs. Scotland is only about 60 miles out from this area.
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